Unseen and Undefined: Redefining Gender and Visibility

Unseen & Undefined is a multidisciplinary performance project developed by Royal College of Art students Amena Elezaby, Jiyou Zhang, Kaiying Qian, Xingchen ‘Chris’ Xiao, Yuyi Yang and Yuting Zhang in response to the persistent invisibility of female and non-binary identities in design, fashion and wider society. Through the blend of fashion, movement, sound and visual storytelling, the performance traces the evolution of gender norms across time — highlighting how identity has been shaped, commodified and constrained through societal expectations.

The performance is structured in four acts, each reflecting a distinct era of gendered visibility and cultural pressure:

Act I – The 1950s: The Male Gaze & Hyper-Femininity

Drawing inspiration from icons like Marilyn Monroe, this act explores the rigid beauty standards of the post-war era. The performer is adorned in corseted, form-fitting garments but moves with elegance and fluidity — reflecting the era’s idealised femininity and charm. This act embodies how women were expected to perform grace and allure for the male gaze, even while constrained by societal expectations and physical garments.

Act II – The 1990s: Liberation or Illusion?

Referencing the ‘heroin chic’ aesthetic, this era reveals the illusion of freedom through fashion. Despite looser social norms, the pressure to appear thin, edgy and desirable remained dominant. Movements become angular, sharp and disconnected. This symbolises the emotional detachment and unrealistic ideals of the time.

Act III – The 2020s: Body Positivity & Inclusion

With body positivity gaining traction, this act embraces diversity and self-expression, but also questions whether true liberation has been achieved. Clothing is layered and bulging in unexpected places, referencing the tension between empowerment and the continued commodification of identity. Movement becomes expansive yet hesitant, revealing internal conflict.

Act IV – The Future: Beyond Appearance

In this speculative vision, gender is no longer defined by physical traits. The performer appears in an androgynous mask and neutral garments, shedding societal layers. Movements become freeform and unbound, expressing a hopeful future where individuals are seen for their intellect, ideas and inner truth — not their appearance.

Unseen & Undefined aims to invite viewers into a space of reflection and questioning:

• Who gets to be seen and how?
• What role does fashion, design and media play in shaping identity?
• Can we imagine a future where visibility is not defined by gendered expectations?

This performance blends contemporary dance, handmade costume design, experimental sound and motion-controlled projections to create a layered, emotionally resonant experience. It is both a critique of the past and a speculative reimagining of what gender visibility could become.

We invite you to watch the full performance here.